We did have other trees in the Prunus genus, however (apricots, peaches, cherries, sour cherries, plumcots, and nectarines), which can potentially cross with them (and hence might pollinate to some degree).

We only had one plum tree at a time so, I can vouch for the self-fertile quality of Stanley. Perhaps the rootstock helped our trees, though. We did have problems with apricots, apples and cherries losing fruit to frost, however. We never had a problem with Stanley plums losing fruit to frost. You should get lots of plums on one tree. is about as cold as it gets the record is about -25° F. This is a very productive variety (at least in my area, which is to say, southwestern Idaho, in the USA-the USDA hardiness zone is about 4-6, depending on the year, but usually -10° F. They look kind of dark red when canned, interestingly, though (they're pretty nice canned, too). They have purple skin, and are not purple inside. They're not tiny like some plums (maybe a couple inches long, and over an inch wide). In my area, they are tart when first ripe, but gradually get sweeter (although they still maintain some acidity when sweet). You definitely need to chew it (even when fresh). By the way it feels when I eat it, this variety seems to be very nutritious. The trees maybe lasted about ten years each, before getting diseased, I'm guessing. They're fairly cold hardy, but our two semi-dwarf trees that we had (at separate times) seemed to have been prone to diseases when they got old (although they still seem to produce when diseased, as long as it doesn't kill them-fruit appearance may be impacted, however). They do make great prunes, and they do taste excellent fresh (the best plum I've tried fresh, actually, but I haven't tried loads of varieties-just a few). The Stanley Prune Plum is the quintessential plum variety for prunes (according to my mom, anyway).

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